Every now and then, the weather and swell conditions come together just right for a wave to do it's thing. There are spots which require the most fickle or specific swell direction. If your lucky/determined enough to figure out that part, congratulations, there is only 15 other variables left that need to be just right for it to work. The biggest variable here being presence of swell.
Then just when you think you have everything all dialed down for a certain surf spot, that perfect day for it comes along when all your 15 variables come together just right, and you take the gamble on it and wake up 3 hours before sunrise just to make sure your on it.
There have been days where I felt like I could of bet money on certain waves working, only to get there and be greeted by a complete lack of waves altogether, sometimes seeming to defy logic.
Then there are those days that you get there and what you see immediately leaves you speechless. Waves that are so good, you immediately forget it is -7 degrees out. For numerous hours.
